{"id":701,"date":"2012-08-16T10:25:40","date_gmt":"2012-08-16T08:25:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ckportal.cz\/?p=701"},"modified":"2012-08-16T10:25:40","modified_gmt":"2012-08-16T08:25:40","slug":"expedice-wild-choice-comeback-nanga-parbat-2012","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/?p=701","title":{"rendered":"Expedice Wild Choice &#8220;Comeback&#8221; Nanga Parbat 2012"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Lo\u0148sk\u00e9 expedici Wild Choice Nanga Parbat 2011 Zde\u0148ka Hrub\u00e9ho a M\u00e1ry Hole\u010dka se nepoda\u0159ilo v d\u016fsledku celkov\u011b \u0161patn\u00fdch pov\u011btrnostn\u00edch a dal\u0161\u00edch podm\u00ednek dos\u00e1hnout c\u00edle, kter\u00fdm byl prvov\u00fdstup Rupalskou st\u011bnou Nanga Parbat. Pokus byl v\u0161ak natolik nad\u011bjn\u00fd, \u017ee se oba rozhodli pro opakov\u00e1n\u00ed pokusu v r\u00e1mci leto\u0161n\u00ed <strong>Expedice<\/strong> <strong>Wild Choice &#8220;Comeback&#8221; Nanga Parbat 2012. <\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>C\u00edlem leto\u0161n\u00ed expedice, pos\u00edlen\u00e9 o \u010dty\u0159i mlad\u0161\u00ed \u010dleny, bylo prov\u00e9st aklimatiza\u010dn\u00ed v\u00fdstup Diamirskou st\u011bnou a pak se znovu pokusit o prvov\u00fdstup v Rupalsk\u00e9 st\u011bn\u011b<\/strong>. Podm\u00ednky ve st\u011bn\u011b pokus o prov\u00fdstup neumo\u017enily, ale expedice byla i tak \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00e1, nebo\u0165 Zden\u011bk <strong>a M\u00e1ra vystoupali na 8.126 m vysok\u00fd Nanga Parbat Kinshoferovou cestou, kter\u00e1 nebyla v posledn\u00edch t\u0159ech letech prostoupena.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>\u00da\u010dastn\u00edci expedice jsou ji\u017e doma a p\u0159edpokl\u00e1d\u00e1me, \u017ee o v\u00fdstupu poskytnou v\u00edce informac\u00ed. Nyn\u00ed alespo\u0148 <strong>stru\u010dn\u00e1 &#8220;report\u00e1\u017e&#8221; od M\u00e1ry Hole\u010dka<\/strong>:<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;14.7 jsme dorazili (j\u00e1, Zdenda, Pavel, Jirka, M\u00ed\u0161a, Radar) do BC pod Diamirskou st\u011bnu. P\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 zji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed na n\u00e1s \u010dekalo v podob\u011b, \u017ee jsme zde sami a do konce na\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdpravy se v tomto duchu nic nezm\u011bnilo. Na druhou stranu t\u0159i roky \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 v\u00fdprava Kinshofrem neprostoupila a za tuto dobu nebylo vylezeno v\u00fd\u0161, ne\u017e do sedmi tis\u00edc metr\u016f. Sn\u011bhov\u00e9 podm\u00ednky ve vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch parti\u00edch katastrof\u00e1n\u00ed. Nad 6000 metr\u016f po kolena a m\u00edsty po p\u00e1s. Expedi\u010dn\u00ed lezen\u00ed, kter\u00e9 m\u011blo \u0161et\u0159it s\u00edly, jsme museli vzd\u00e1t v 5800 metrech. Kluci v po\u010d\u00e1tku m\u011bli pomalej\u0161\u00ed postup a bohu\u017eel s n\u00e1mi ji\u017e nesladili krok. V samotn\u00e9m v\u00fdstupu chyb\u011bl t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 jak\u00fdkoliv fixn\u00ed materi\u00e1l; materi\u00e1l z p\u0159edchoz\u00edch expedic a na\u0161e vlastn\u00ed z\u00e1soby v pom\u011bru co bychom museli zajistit sv\u00e9pomoc\u00ed, se daly ozna\u010dit za nedostate\u010dn\u00e9, respektive sp\u00ed\u0161e \u00fasm\u011bvn\u00e9. Vsadili jsme v\u0161e na jednu kartu a nabalili se Zde\u0148kem batoh na dost riskantn\u00ed pokus. Nem\u011bli jsme dostate\u010dnou aklimatizaci, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd support za sebou ani p\u0159ed sebou. Po jeden\u00e1cti dnech str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v z\u00e1padn\u00ed st\u011bn\u011b Nangy, se vrac\u00edme do Base Campu i s vrcholem. Nicm\u00e9n\u011b fyzick\u00fd fond v\u010detn\u011b, psychick\u00e9ho, byl zral\u00fd na kompletn\u00ed repasi. N\u00e1sledn\u011b na to, vzala sbohem p\u0159edstava o dal\u0161\u00ed pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed n\u00e1s dvou v Rup\u00e1lsk\u00e9 st\u011bn\u011b. V\u00edce v \u010dl\u00e1nku, kter\u00fd v nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00edch dnech bude i s videi v\u010detn\u011b fotek k dispozici na webu.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>horosvaz.cz<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Lo\u0148sk\u00e9 expedici Wild Choice Nanga Parbat 2011 Zde\u0148ka Hrub\u00e9ho a M\u00e1ry Hole\u010dka se nepoda\u0159ilo v d\u016fsledku celkov\u011b \u0161patn\u00fdch pov\u011btrnostn\u00edch a dal\u0161\u00edch podm\u00ednek dos\u00e1hnout c\u00edle, kter\u00fdm byl prvov\u00fdstup Rupalskou st\u011bnou Nanga Parbat. Pokus byl v\u0161ak natolik nad\u011bjn\u00fd, \u017ee se oba rozhodli &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/?p=701\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-701","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-novinky"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/701","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=701"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/701\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":703,"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/701\/revisions\/703"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=701"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=701"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rocksport.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=701"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}